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To make goat’s cheese, the milk is first heated slowly to 72 °C, as recommended by Louis Pasteur. Add the rennet and white mold culture, and the mass will coagulate and become grainy. Let the cheese set in the mould for 24 hours, season with salt, wrap up the cheese and stamp it with a date showing a durability of 3 months. “But you shouldn’t blindly look at the best before date,” says goat farmer Lita Gustavsson. Some of her regular customers continue to store the cheese until it turns brown and becomes intensely savoury.

Lita Gustavsson and Bertil Andersson of Wätteros Farm have 16 adult goats and a flock of curious kids to herd at their farm. The farm produces cheese, meat, sausages, furs and skins. “I can ensure you that all your ideas about goats are true,” says Lita. “They tug on anything, keep climbing and escaping, are almost impossibly stubborn and become even grumpier as they grow older. But, they are also smart, kind, social and you can negotiate with them. For example, we have a somewhat loose contract on their staying within the limits of their pen. For a while, at least.”

Lita and Bertil are creative entrepreneurs with small-scale production. They are whole-heartedly engaged in transforming the Åland Islands from a pancake land to a gastronomically superior region.

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